EpurMagazine Flavour | 31 Aug 2018
Refining. Épurer. ‘Epur’. It is precisely in this beliefto purify, to privilege the essential, to overlook the artifice, that the kitchen of the French chef Vincent Farges is based. The new Epur, in Chiado, in the heart of Lisbon, is a fine dining restaurant, with a simple (but not easy) cuisine, where “everything that is superficial is banished” – in one simple sentence, from the chef, “it is pure simplicity in the dish”. A refined restaurant, both in the kitchen and in the décor, where there is no place for distractions or stratagems – “I do not want clients to feel suffocated, I want them to feel at home”, asserts Vincent. Here, the direction that Farges refined over the ten years of Fortaleza do Guincho was not lost. On the contrary, it improved. Here, there is no room for squandering, it is “real cooking”, genuine. It is the raising of the senses. Of all the senses. And this starts right on arrival, which is done through an unusual passage through the restaurant’s kitchen that then takes us to the main room where our first surprise is the view. We contemplate Tejo and Lisbon, in a room full of sunlight, alienated from the outside activity, in a modern environment, with simple furniture in light wood, where you can also feel the city’s cultural inheritance through the traditional tiles covering the lower part of the walls. And the rising of the senses perseveres, and intensifies, as we sit at the table of Epur. Freshness, consistency, memories.
Featured in ROOF 16
Text: Isadora Faustino
Photos: Luis Ferraz; Isadora Faustino
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